How Much to Feed Your Cat: Daily Portions by Weight and Age

Cats are creatures of habit — and they are very good at convincing you they're starving when they've already eaten. Those pleading eyes at 4 a.m., the dramatic meow next to an empty bowl, the slow walk past the kitchen while staring directly at you. Your cat is a professional negotiator, and portion control is where you need to hold the line.

The truth is, overfeeding is the single most common nutritional mistake cat owners make. Over 60% of pet cats in the U.S. are overweight or obese, and extra weight puts your cat at risk for diabetes, joint problems, and a shorter life. Getting portions right isn't fussy or complicated — it just takes knowing your cat's actual calorie needs instead of guessing.

The Calorie Formula

Veterinary nutritionists use a straightforward formula to calculate your cat's daily calorie needs. It starts with the Resting Energy Requirement (RER):

RER = 70 × (body weight in kg)^0.75

Then multiply RER by a life-stage factor to get your cat's Maintenance Energy Requirement (MER):

Let's work through a quick example. Say your indoor cat weighs 5 kg (11 lbs):

• RER = 70 × 5^0.75 = 70 × 3.34 = 234 kcal
• MER = 234 × 1.2 = ~281 kcal per day

That's your cat's daily calorie budget — from food and treats combined. It's probably less than you expected, and that's exactly why so many indoor cats end up overweight. A single extra tablespoon of kibble doesn't seem like much, but over weeks and months it adds up.

Feeding Chart by Weight and Life Stage

Here's what daily calorie needs look like across different weights and life stages. Find your cat's weight in the left column and read across to the relevant category:

A few things worth noting. First, kitten calorie needs are remarkably high — a 5-pound kitten needs nearly as many calories as a 12-pound adult indoor cat. That's because kittens are growing at a breakneck pace and burning energy like tiny furnaces. Second, the gap between "active adult" and "indoor adult" is significant. If your cat lives entirely indoors and isn't one of those rare cats who voluntarily exercises, use the indoor column.

To convert calories into portions, check the calorie count on your cat's food label. Most dry cat food runs 300–400 kcal per cup. Most wet food is 70–100 kcal per 3-oz can or about 150–200 kcal per 5.5-oz can. Divide your cat's daily calorie target by the food's calorie density, and that's your portion.

Indoor vs Outdoor Cats

This distinction matters more than most people realize. An outdoor cat that hunts, patrols a territory, and climbs fences might burn 20–30% more calories than an indoor cat of the same weight. That's the difference between 265 kcal and 350 kcal per day for a 10-pound cat — almost an entire extra meal's worth.

Indoor cats spend most of their day sleeping (16–20 hours isn't unusual) and the remainder grooming, watching birds through the window, and sprinting to the kitchen when they hear a can open. That's not a lot of calorie expenditure. If your indoor cat is at a healthy weight and you're feeding the outdoor-cat amount listed on most food bags, they're probably getting too much.

The feeding guidelines printed on commercial cat food packaging are almost always for active cats, and they tend to run on the high side — the manufacturer wants you to use more product, after all. For an indoor-only cat, start with 80% of the bag's recommended amount and adjust from there based on your cat's body condition over 2–4 weeks.

Kitten Feeding Schedule

Kittens aren't just small cats — they have completely different nutritional needs. A kitten's body is building bone density, muscle, brain tissue, and immune function all at once, and that takes a lot of fuel delivered in frequent small meals.

The single most important thing during kittenhood: use kitten-specific food, not adult cat food. Kitten formulas have higher protein (typically 35–50% vs 26–30% for adults), more fat, and added DHA for brain development. Feeding adult food to a growing kitten is like putting regular fuel in a race car — it runs, but not well.

By around 10–12 months, most cats have reached their adult size and you can begin transitioning to adult food. Do this gradually over 7–10 days, mixing increasing amounts of adult food with decreasing kitten food. A sudden switch often leads to digestive upset — and nobody wants to deal with that.

One more note: don't restrict a kitten's food intake unless your vet specifically tells you to. Kittens are naturally self-regulating when they're young and growing rapidly. Underfeeding a kitten can cause developmental problems that are much harder to fix than a slightly chubby adult cat.

Wet vs Dry Food

This is one of the most debated topics in cat nutrition, and the honest answer is: both work, and a mix is often best. Here's how they compare:

Calorie density

Dry food packs about 300–400 kcal per cup. Wet food averages 70–100 kcal per 3-oz can (or ~150–200 kcal per 5.5-oz can). That means a single cup of kibble has roughly the same calories as two and a half 5.5-oz cans. If you're switching from dry to wet, you'll need a lot more volume — which is actually great for weight management, because your cat feels full on fewer calories.

Hydration

This is wet food's biggest advantage. Cats evolved in arid environments and have a naturally low thirst drive — many cats simply don't drink enough water on their own. Wet food is about 78% moisture, while dry food is only 10–12%. Cats on an all-dry diet get about half the daily water intake of cats eating wet food. Over time, chronic mild dehydration can contribute to urinary tract issues and kidney stress, which are two of the most common health problems in older cats.

A practical mixing strategy

Many vets recommend feeding at least one wet meal per day for the hydration benefit, with dry food available for the other meal or as a small snack. If your cat eats 250 kcal per day, try one 5.5-oz can of wet food (~180 kcal) in the morning and about ¼ cup of kibble (~90 kcal) in the evening. This gives you the hydration benefits of wet food, the convenience of dry, and a cat who's getting variety in texture and flavor.

Signs of Overfeeding

Cats gain weight gradually, and because you see your cat every day, the change can be almost invisible until suddenly you realize your once-sleek hunter has turned into a furry bowling ball. Here are the signs to watch for:

• Belly sag. A swinging belly pouch that goes beyond the normal primordial pouch. If your cat's belly visibly sways when they walk, they're carrying extra fat.
• Loss of waist. Look at your cat from above. A healthy cat has a visible taper behind the ribs. If the body is oval-shaped with no waist, your cat is overweight.
• Can't feel the ribs. Place your hands on your cat's sides. You should feel individual ribs with gentle pressure. If you have to push hard, there's too much fat covering them.
• Difficulty grooming. Overweight cats struggle to reach their back end and the base of their tail. If you notice matted fur or dandruff in areas your cat used to keep clean, excess weight may be limiting their flexibility.
• Lethargy and reduced play. If your cat has gone from chasing toys to watching them fly by without moving, extra weight might be the reason. Cats don't get "lazy" without cause — they stop playing because it's physically uncomfortable.
• Labored breathing after minimal effort. Jumping to a counter or climbing stairs shouldn't leave your cat panting. If it does, weight is putting strain on their cardiovascular system.

A healthy adult cat typically weighs between 8 and 11 pounds, though this varies by breed. Maine Coons can be a healthy 18 pounds; Siamese may be a lean 6. Ask your vet what your cat's ideal weight is, and weigh them monthly at home using a baby scale or the step-on-step-off bathroom scale trick.

When to Adjust Portions

Your cat's calorie needs aren't fixed for life. Several milestones and environmental shifts call for a recalculation:

After spaying or neutering

This is the single biggest metabolic shift in most cats' lives. Hormonal changes from the surgery can reduce your cat's calorie needs by 25–30%. If you keep feeding the same amount, weight gain is almost guaranteed. Most vets recommend reducing portions by about 25% immediately after recovery and monitoring closely for the next 2–3 months.

Seasonal changes

If your cat goes outdoors, they'll burn more calories in cold weather (staying warm takes energy) and may be slightly less active during summer heat. Indoor cats show less seasonal variation, but many owners notice their cat is a bit more restless and playful in spring and fall. Adjust by 10–15% if you notice weight changes with the seasons.

Aging

Senior cats (roughly 11+ years) have a complicated relationship with food. Their metabolism slows, but their ability to absorb nutrients also declines — some older cats actually need more protein and fat to maintain muscle mass even as they need fewer total calories. A senior-formula food handles this balance for you. If your older cat is losing weight despite eating normally, see your vet — hyperthyroidism and kidney disease are common culprits.

After illness or surgery

Recovering cats may need 25–50% more calories temporarily while their body heals. Your vet will guide you on specifics, but don't be surprised if your cat needs more food during recovery — and don't forget to scale back once they're healthy again.

Last updated: March 2026